Today we return to waterfalls once again. We’ll explore a bit of Hardangervidda National Park, Norway’s largest national park and home to one of the world’s biggest wild reindeer herds. We drive off in search of reindeer and find ourselves in the small town of Kinsarvik.
Here, we face two hiking options. First, Dronningstien, also called Queen Sonja’s Panoramic Trail because it ranks among the Norwegian queen’s favorite hikes. This route stretches about 16km (roughly 8 hours) and mostly traverses mountain peaks, offering stunning fjord panoramas and views of the previously mentioned Folgefonna glacier across the fjord. Below, powerful waterfalls begin their descent through Husedalen Valley.
We choose Husedalen Valley for our adventure. Parking proves free this time, though spaces remain limited. Four waterfalls await us on the route: Tveitafossen, Nyastølfossen, Nykkjesøyfossen, and Sotefossen. We hiked all the way to Nykkjesøyfossen and waved from afar to Sotefossen.
The trail to Husedalen’s waterfalls presents two possible hiking variations. The first follows right along the riverbank, rewarding yourself with incredibly close waterfall views. However, this path is challenging. The surroundings slippery and wet as tiny streams sprouts from everywhere even from the stones. No chains assist you this time asin Kjerag. Trail markings appear and disappear, as if playing hide-and-seek with travelers.
Those willing to admire waterfalls from a distance can choose the gravel road. It ends near Nykkjesøyfossen. In my humble opinion, the optimal strategy involves ascending via the more dramatic path and descending on the gravel road. This way, you’ll get ya good hike while keeping your ankles intact.
We leave Hardangervidda behind, but we haven’t finished with waterfalls just yet! Returning to our car, we head off to end the day at Vøringsfossen. The final kilometers to this waterfall fascinate visitors, as you spiral inside a mountain tunnel like in a multi-story parking garage, starting at the bottom and emerging at the mountain’s summit.
I’ve seen many tunnels in Switzerland and Madeira, but here at Hardangervidda it surpasses all others I’ve encountered. Norway also boasts the world’s longest tunnel, stretching 24 km (Lærdalstunnelen), designed with input from psychologists. It features rest areas and sections with different colored lighting to keep drivers alert.
One can’t help but admire Norwegian ingenuity and technical solutions. They seemingly can tunnel anywhere and anyhow—even spiraling upward! As you wind up through this tunnel, your mind fills with the sounds of “Peer Gynt,” the collaborative masterpiece of two famous Norwegians—playwright Henrik Ibsen and composer Edvard Grieg. We feel as if we’ve invaded the Hall of the Mountain King.
After these impressive tunnels, an even more spectacular waterfall awaits us—actually, two in one location. Vøringsfossen ranks among Norway’s most stunning waterfalls, and the setting sun over Måbødalen valley only enhances its beauty.
This waterfall stands out for its impressive 182-meter height and powerful water flow. We couldn’t tear our eyes away from this mighty, rippling water. The parking lot offers plenty of space; by evening, we noticed several campers preparing for overnight stays.
Looking at photos and knowing this marks a popular tourist spot, I expected a polished approach path. Not quite the case. I wouldn’t recommend high heels here. However, the metal pedestrian bridge opened in 2020, offering opportunities to view the waterfall from above, deserves applause. Want to see the waterfall from below? Also possible. The hike leading to the pool beneath the waterfall remains popular but quite challenging. Therefore, bring good shoes (definitely no high heels here).
Hardangervidda’s scenic route offers many overnight accommodations, and we selected one such place for our stay.